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Photo courtesy of Magnolia Pictures
A feeling of déjà vu sweeps across America this week and it is definitely a time of reflection for all—whether you are American or not. In this time of change, the editorial team at ARCHIVES Magazine invites you to revisit the remarkable documentary “The Gospel According to André”, which chronicles the life and legacy of the late André Leon Talley. Through the lens of the legendary fashion journalist’s brilliant mind, the film offers a vivid perspective on the Church’s impact on fashion, American politics, and imagining a boundless sense of luxury.
Filmmaker Kate Novack crafts an intimate portrait of one of the industry’s timeless figures—from his humble beginnings in the Jim Crow South of North Carolina to his trailblazing work at Vogue. Raised by his maternal grandmother in Durham, Talley reminisces with grace about the challenges he had to face as a tall Black gay man living under segregation and social alienation, as well as how incongruous it looked for him to be in those elite landscapes. Family and friends, as well as big fashion industry players, all take turns providing testimonials about his monumental contribution to fashion journalism, his luminous beauty ideals and, mostly, his unwavering purity.
At the Front Row of Church
Despite what one could think of someone of his notoriety, Talley grew up in the church and remained an active member of his childhood church. A big part of the documentary explores how critical this part of his life was for his prolific career. The church played a significant role in African American communities in that period and it was their very own “runway”. The film depicts Christian women adorning exuberant headwear, voluptuous dresses and skirts, poplin and lace, alluring jewelry, and more. The great Carrie Bradshaw once asked : “What is it about God and fashion that goes so well together ?” In the Bible, Jacob told the people in his household to “purify themselves and change their clothes” (Gen. 35:2) if they want to join him to honor God at the altar. In segregated Black communities, this act of dressing up took on profound meaning : it symbolized leaving behind the weight of their daily sin and sorrow to present themselves renewed and dignified in the sacred space of worship, embodying both spiritual and physical purity to honor God. The fashion critic tells the story of how growing up with his grandmother, who taught him early on the importance of a perfectly ironed shirt, and how catching the Sunday service spectacles shaped his understanding of true luxury. As he observed the ritual of dressing one’s best to honor God, he came to see beauty as a spiritual act—an ideal that profoundly influenced his approach to fashion and society.
Fashion Meets Politics
Eight years have passed since the release of the film and the world is watching in dismay as a second Trump presidency unfolds. This context lends a bittersweet resonance to the documentary, as the viewer is brought back to the time of the election race between Clinton and Trump, as seen through the hopeful mind of a creative individual of extreme sensibility. The feature film showcases Talley’s intersection with politics—not through activism, but through the transformative power of fashion. Those parts were pleasant, as he shows that fashion has a way of creating a positive memory even when it comes to stressful political events. For instance, there is an intricate intermission where Talley works with New York Times columnist Maureen Dowd on a fashion opinion piece about the great look Melania Trump was wearing at the inauguration of her husband. As much as it felt like a silly and light-hearted shot of an optimistic André, the camera subtly captured an undercurrent of grief—a reminder of the tensions between beauty and the harsh realities of the world.
Transcending Beauty
It is truly rare to find a fashion enthusiast that does not know the name André Leon Talley, and the film is a delightful homage to his journey becoming one of the most acclaimed fashion intellectuals of our time. The documentary is, of course, full of fashion history gems and thrilling industry anecdotes, but the main character’s witty and eloquent narration makes it all simply excellent. Nevertheless, the production stays realistic; the late journalist’s career reminds the spectator that the dreamy allure of fashion is often a form of escapism. Our ideals of beauty (e.g., trends, material goods, democracy, and capitalism) can quickly make us feel disillusioned if we only swear by it. Talley reminds us that beauty cannot save our sanity, we need to hold on to what transcends our human experience.
“People always say, ‘How do you do it ? How do you put up with this world for so long ?’ I say, ‘Through my faith and my ancestors’.” — André Leon Talley
☆☆☆☆
“The Gospel According to André” available on selected streaming services.
